The Legacy of the Banchan Battle: My Mother’s Generation
In my mother’s generation, preparing new Banchan (side dishes) for three meals a day was the norm. If not freshly made, there was always a backup of staple, long-lasting Banchan neatly waiting in the fridge. The main dish changed daily, depending on the season or a special occasion.
My favorites were always Mom’s homemade Tonkatsu, where she meticulously grated the breadcrumbs herself before frying, and grilled fish like Gulbi. Her Gyeran-mari (rolled omelet) was never simple; she always diced vegetables and cheese to make it colorful and vibrant.I realize now that even seemingly simple side dishes required significant effort in the process and ingredients. Indeed, it took me years to truly understand the immense devotion behind it all. I am deeply regretful for the times I was picky about banchan—what we call ‘Banchan-tujeong’…
My Modern, Minimalist Korean Table
Today, I choose to let go of the rigid expectations for my own meals. I no longer feel the need for a mandatory soup or obligatory kimchi, unlike many who still consider these essential. While my mother diligently prepared lavish meals (and even had to pack lunch and dinner for my school days—but let’s save the Dosirak story for later!), my approach is different. Although the count of dishes on my table is humble, I focus on making each plate generous and visually appealing. This is my way of ensuring a balance of the five major nutrients. That should be enough, shouldn’t it?
Tradition: Banchan Count as a Symbol of Status
In Korea, a meal is centered around rice (bap), accompanied by soup or stew, and basic side dishes like Kimchi or Jangajji (pickles). Historically, the number of side dishes served, known as ‘Cheop’ (첩), signified a family’s wealth and social status.
- 3-Cheop: The table setting of commoners.
- 5, 7, or 9-Cheop: The number increased according to social standing.
12-Cheop: Reserved exclusively for the royal court, symbolizing the ultimate power and hierarchy of the monarchy.
Understanding the 5-Cheop Bansang (오첩반상)
The 5-Cheop Bansang was a table setting used by affluent Banga (noble families). Above all, it was crucial that the five side dishes were diverse in ingredients and cooking methods, ensuring harmony with the rice.
This traditional format includes:
- Rice (Bap)
- Soup/Stew (Guk or Jjigae)
- Kimchi (essential)
- Five Side Dishes (e.g., seasoned vegetables, grilled, braised, battered/fried, and preserved banchan).
Aesthetics also played a major role. Dishes like Samsek-namul (three-color seasoned vegetables – spinach, bellflower root, bracken) were important for their contrasting colors. Even simple Korean pancakes (Jeon) were garnished with red chili or mugwort to brighten the plate. The overall goal was a colorful harmony: the clean white rice, the clear soup, and the vivid reds, greens, and yellows of the various Banchan.
Therefore, it is because I am theoretically aware of this tradition that I cannot help but cheer like a king when I occasionally visit a Korean full-course restaurant and see a table so overloaded with dishes that the legs of the table threaten to snap. Even if at home, my own meals rarely reach the 3-Cheop mark…
